Crack on Spark Plugs

Bad Ignition coil , wet Spark Plugs , wrong Spark Plugs can result in thermal crack on the ceramic body of the spark plug.

On some severe engine health issue like water or oil seepage thru the engine head resulting in Engine knocking (Detonation); raising the temperature of the combustion may also overheat the center electrode of the spark plugs casing it to expand and crack the surrounding ceramic insulation .

Broken Impulse/ Flywheel Speed Sensor

Do you know that a broken Impulse / Flywheel Speed sensor can signal off a vast symptoms to the characteristic of the engine & transmission .

A Sensor breaks when engine oil makes its way into the inside soaking the electrical parts within the sensor with oil. But before the complete failure take place, you will experience difficulty of re-igniting the Engine after having driven for a moment and while driving , the transmission revs higher before it move up the next gear, It progresses into Poor/ retard delivery of Torque during acceleration and in some cases you can feel the slamming of clutch movement with a loud bang in the gearbox.

A broken Speed Sensor can happen even at a mere 65,000 Km like this one below. Have your vehicle check and Sensor replaced when your car behaves in such manner even before the Check light appears.

When is it Time to replace Oxygen Sensors

One of the most important sensors in modern cars is the oxygen sensor. Also known as the O2 /Lambda sensor because O2 is the chemical formula for oxygen, the oxygen sensor monitors how much unburned oxygen is present in the exhaust as exhaust exits the engine. By monitoring oxygen levels, the sensor provides a means of measuring fuel mixture. The O2 sensor lets the computer know if the fuel mix is burning rich (not enough oxygen) or lean (too much oxygen). Knowing the ratio of fuel to air allows your vehicle’s engine to make any necessary changes to ensure that your car runs like it should.

A good oxygen sensor is essential for good fuel economy, emissions and optimum engine performance.

Signs You Need a New O2 Sensor
An illuminated check-engine light could be a sign of a more serious issue, such as with the catalytic converter, or something as minor as a loose gas cap, so further investigation is always required. It could, however, indicate that there is a problem with your O2 sensor or even another part of your exhaust or emissions system. Any repair shop should be able to read what triggered your check-engine light.

Other signs that you need a new oxygen sensor include a rough idle, misfiring spark plugs, lack of power, stalling or a significant increase in fuel consumption. Those symptoms could also be indications of other problems. If your vehicle fails an emissions test, a faulty O2 sensor may be to blame for this as well. If you’re experiencing any of the symptoms above, it’s important to have your car inspected and the oxygen sensor replaced if necessary.

Manufacturers recommend oxygen sensors positioned before the Catalytic Converters to be replaced before 160, 000 km ;

O2 Sensors positioned after the Catalytic Converters are recommended to replace before 250, 000 km.


If your VAG Group vehicle , VOLVO, Jaguar LAND ROVER has four wheel drive it’s likely the real wheels are driven through a Haldex coupling

The Haldex Coupling is a very sophisticated piece of engineering and it needs to be looked after with regular oil changes. This multiplate Coupling is submerged( wet clutch system) that engages upon slip and
transfer power to the rear final drive; controlled by computer and built in fine engineering tolerances.
A Haldex pump pre-charges the oil inside the unit allowing the multi plate coupling to engage faster.
If dirty Oil and filter are not refreshed, performance will largely be affected by faulty pump and vehicle will experience engine power loss to the
rear wheels
It is recommended to refresh the Haldex Oil every 35 ,000 km and Filter
replaced every 70,000 km.


If you experience the juddering mainly when you start the engine and when the car is idling, often accompanied by a loud clattering noise, the problem is likely in the dual mass flywheel which sits between the tran-smission and the engine. The flywheel consists of two plates that can move a small amount in relation to each other. This provides a cushioning effect when torque is transferred from the engine to the transmission. When that flywheel wears down, and the amount of move-ment is too great, you get a juddering/shuddering sensation.

**NOTE: Before removing the DMF unnecessarily, you should also consider contaminated or corroded ground contacts, contact resistors on the electrical connections in the starter and generator electrical circuit as well as problems with the battery (insufficiently charged, damaged or defective) as a failure cause.

During a visual inspection, a discolored friction surface on the secondary flywheel (arrow A) indicates an overheated or overloaded DMF. This effect can occur if drivers let the clutch slip for too long or the release system is faulty. In addition, there is a danger that longer-lasting overheating will harden the special lubricant in the DMF, which frequently ends in component failure.

A DMF can also be checked while fitted in the vehicle or once removed using the special dual-mass flywheel test tool. Here, the free travel of the torsional damper, the evenness of its spring force, the axial bearing conditions and the displacement travel of the radial bearing site can be determined.

When checking the free travel of the torsional damper, the secondary part of the DMF is rotated using the lever counterclockwise until encountering slight counterpressure or feeling the spring force of the torsional damper. The free travel should not be more than six teeth of the starter ring gear. If it is more than six teeth, it is highly likely that internal damage exists and the DMF will need replacing.


Suspension system parts are quite necessary to keep your driving smooth. You will feel uncomfortable if you have a terrible car suspension system and suddenly a big speed breaker comes in your way that you have to cross. But, if you install all powerful suspension parts, then you don’t need to worry about any bumps or other problems and can drive with ease.

Let me tell you about the several suspension system parts


It is a little, but vital part in the suspension system. Bushing is made of artificial rubber that splits out in two steel parts. This artificial rubber helps both steel parts to work properly and easily. It also helps the suspension parts to move freely when a huge bump hits.

Control Arm:

This part has also another name which is a wishbone. The condition of this suspension part is practically triangular. It just looks like ‘A’, therefore sometimes it is known as the A-arm. There are two sides of Control Arm, one is connected on a steering knuckle with a ball joint, and the other side is connected to an arm pole with bushing.

Sway Bar:

Sway Bars are also very famous by another name called “stabilizer Bars”. A sway bar is employed in a car suspension system to decrease jerk caused by irregular highway surfaces. There is another job of this part is that it keeps a good hold over vehicle on the clear or poor road so the person whose driving can turn vehicle well and easily.

Ball Joint:

A ball joint is a sphere-shaped bearing. The work of this part is to connect the control arms and steering knuckles. This part is the in charge of safe procedure and the most essential part between suspension and steering. The only dissimilarity between  these and the standard ball joints is that the covered ball joints didn’t need lubricants because they’re already covered with lubricant, while standard ball joint parts need regular lubing otherwise it can lose control.

Idler Arms & Pitman Arms:

These parts rely upon the support of the steering linkage. The pitman arms are situated opposite to the Idler. The Pitman arm really helps to steer the steering wheel because one of its ends is mounted on the vehicle’s steering items.

The parts talked about here are just few parts of suspension system. You can discover a lot more small and big parts within the suspension system. Centre links, strut mounts, drag links, tie rod ends, and many others are also the part of auto suspension system and without knowing these parts you can’t be fully aware of the suspensions system.

Volkswagen Economy Parts

Volkswagen has a new range of Economy Parts designed for vehicles is over 5 year old and as a direct competitor to aftermarket /OEM parts.

Volkswagen Economy parts meet the same performance and safety requirements as the original VW Genuine Parts but have a slightly modified design, materials and reduced number of variants,

allowing the manufacturer to reduce the cost and pass the saving on to the customer. Therefore prices of these Economy parts are generally  25 % cheaper than Genuine Parts.

The range of these Economy parts generally covers the following:

Wiper Blades

Brake disc


Exhaust System

Pollen filter

Shock Absorber

CV joint


Starter motor


A broken ignition coil pack connector housing are common cause of misfires. These plastic connector housings becomes brittle in the engine bay and when a mechanic tries to pry and unlock the connector while replacing the ignition coil or spark plugs; the brittle connector cracks apart.
Its is always advisable to replace these connectors housings too during your spark plugs or coil packs change.

Condensation inside Newly installed Headlamp

After a new Headlamp or a new Bulb is replaced, Water droplets can found on the inside of the headlamp (Usually after a car wash or rainy season) these are often a misconception of a defective headlamp.
These fine water droplets did not come from outside the headlamp but are actually precipitation of the humidity inside the headlamp settling on the cooler surface of the lens after experiencing fluctuation of temperature.
The condensation will clear as you drive with the headlamp engaged and sometimes may take about a week to fully clear.